From Fiumicino (FCO): the Leonardo Express runs straight to Termini in about 32 minutes for roughly EUR 14, the easiest option with luggage. Taxis charge a posted flat fare of about EUR 55 to anywhere inside the Aurelian walls - per car, not per person. Insist on the flat fare and refuse a meter.
From Ciampino (CIA): shuttle buses reach Termini in about 40 minutes for roughly EUR 6, or a taxi at a flat fare of about EUR 40. Ignore anyone offering a ride inside the terminal and use the official ranks only.
Rome is a walking city first: most central sights are minutes apart on foot, and the metro has only two main lines (A and B), which miss most of the historic centre because digging keeps hitting ruins. A single ticket costs about EUR 1.50 and covers 100 minutes on all transport; 24, 48 and 72-hour passes pay off if you move around a lot.
Buses and trams cover what the metro does not, but crawl in traffic. Keep your validated ticket to the end - inspections are common and fines immediate.
Bring genuinely comfortable shoes: Rome's cobbles are uneven, and you will walk far more than you plan to.
April-June and September-October are ideal: mild weather, good light, gardens open. July and August are severely hot and the archaeological sites have almost no shade - if you come then, start at opening and take a midday break as Romans do.
November-February is quieter, cheaper and shorter-queued, with churches and museums making up for the short days. Scattered rain rarely spoils a day.
Book before you travel: the Colosseum (its ticket covers the Forum and Palatine), the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel, and the Borghese Gallery - the last requires a compulsory timed booking and admits nobody without one.
No booking needed: the Pantheon, St Peter's Basilica (security queue only), Palazzo Barberini, Doria Pamphilj, Palazzo Massimo, and every fountain and square.
Churches require modest dress covering shoulders and knees, enforced strictly at St Peter's - carry a scarf or light layer in summer.
Sitting on monument steps and fountain rims, and eating on them, is fineable and actually enforced at the Trevi and the Spanish Steps.
Water from the street fountains (nasoni) is free, cold and drinkable - refill your bottle instead of buying water.
The Mosque of Rome in the Parioli district north of the centre is the largest in Western Europe, welcomes worshippers daily and houses an Islamic cultural centre.
Halal dining clusters around Termini, the Esquilino district and Piazza Vittorio, with Middle Eastern, Pakistani and Egyptian restaurants - see our Where to Eat section. In ordinary Italian restaurants, pasta, vegetable and fish dishes are always available, but watch for cured pork in carbonara and amatriciana.
Budget: EUR 70-110 per person (simple stay, transport ticket, quick meals, one paid sight). Mid-range: EUR 160-260.
Rome is among Europe's richest cities for free sights: the Pantheon, St Peter's, every square and fountain, and major churches holding works by Caravaggio and Michelangelo - all ticketless. See the Free filter in our guide.
On the first Sunday of each month, state archaeological sites and museums open free to everyone - very busy days, so arrive at opening or avoid them entirely.
Europe-wide emergency: 112. Pickpocketing is Rome's main risk - be alert on metro line A, on buses 64 and 40 towards the Vatican, and around Termini.
Most museums close Monday, and the Vatican Museums close Sunday except the last Sunday of the month (free). Check each place's page before shaping your day.
Restaurants add a coperto (table charge), which is normal. Avoid places with photo menus and insistent touts outside the major sights - walk two streets and you will pay half for better food.