The great courtyard
Stone arcades and arches.
Mustafa Hamzah Almosawy — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Taisir Mahdi — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Taisir Mahdi — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Hekmat Al-Ayashi — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Hekmat Al-Ayashi — CC BY-SA 4.0
Al-Ukhaidir Fortress is a huge rectangular fortress of the Abbasid era in the desert south-west of Karbala, built about 775. It is among the finest surviving examples of Abbasid architecture in Iraq. It stands alone on flat ground, looking from afar like a small walled town, and makes a strong impression as you approach. It was built by Isa ibn Musa, nephew of Caliph al-Saffah. It was an important stop on the region's trade routes. Gertrude Bell studied it in the early 20th century and wrote the first major report on its remains. Its current name may be linked to Ismail ibn Yusuf al-Ukhaidhir of the Banu Ukhaidhir. The fortress is on UNESCO's tentative list. You enter through a tall gate into a broad courtyard, then move between a main hall, a great iwan, a reception hall, servants' rooms and a mosque. Stone vaults and arches rise over the corridors, and light from the openings draws fine lines across them. From the top of the walls, if climbing is possible, the desert stretches endlessly around you. It is about 44 km in a straight line from Karbala and needs a car and a driver who knows the way. There are no confirmed facilities there, so bring water and a hat and avoid the summer heat. The UK Foreign Office currently advises against all but essential travel to this area, so check official guidance before planning.
Stone arcades and arches.
Light drawing fine lines.
Open land around the walls.
South-west of Karbala, in the desert, Iraq
By car with a driver who knows the way from Karbala, as the site lies in the desert far from public transport.
We could not confirm any, so bring water and what you need.