The stone walls
Running along the hill.
Carole Raddato from Frankfurt, Germany — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Albinfo — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Carole Raddato from Frankfurt, Germany — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Carole Raddato from Frankfurt, Germany — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Carole Raddato from Frankfurt, Germany — CC BY-SA 2.0
Antigonea was an ancient Greek city of the Chaonians and their chief inland settlement, just south of the village of Saraqinisht in Gjirokastër County. It stands at 600 m on an almost impregnable hill commanding the Drino valley, and is now a national archaeological park visited by relatively few people. It was founded in the 3rd century BC, perhaps by Antigonus II Gonatas but more probably by Pyrrhus of Epirus, who would have named it after his wife Antigone, step-daughter of Ptolemy I of Egypt. It sided with the Macedonians in their war with Rome, and after the Roman victory in 167 BC the consul Aemilius Paullus ordered 70 towns in Epirus burned, Antigonea among them. It was never rebuilt. Long stone walls, house foundations and towers can still be seen along the hill, along with a later church with a floor mosaic of St Christopher. Do not expect a complete city, as the beauty of the place lies in the mix of stone, the Drino valley and mountains on every side. It is 7 km in a straight line from Gjirokastër, though the mountain road is longer, so a car or tour is best. The ground is uneven, so bring suitable shoes, a hat and water. The hour before sunset is finest and coolest, while winter rain and snow can make it hard going, so ask about the road.
Running along the hill.
A wide view from above.
A floor from a later age.
Near Saraqinisht village, Gjirokastër County
Most likely Pyrrhus of Epirus, perhaps Antigonus II, in the 3rd century BC.
By car or tour from Gjirokastër. The mountain road is longer than 7 km.