Ateni Sioni Church

About this place

Ateni Sioni is an early 7th-century Georgian Orthodox church in the village of Ateni in the Tana River valley, south of Gori. Set among green mountains and vineyards, it combines old architecture with a fine natural setting. Its frescoes are among the best examples of Georgian painting, drawing those interested in art as well as lovers of this valley known for its wine. Its name comes from Mount Zion in Jerusalem. It is a tetraconch church with four apses and four niches open to the central space, entered from the north. Its dome rises over three rows of squinches, with eight, then sixteen, then thirty-two facets. This early form gives it great importance in the history of Georgian architecture. From outside you see a stepped mass of pink and grey stone topped by a conical dome, sometimes with restoration scaffolding. Old Georgian inscriptions and small relief figures appear on the outer walls. The building stands on a slope among hills, and the mountains behind it are green in spring and golden in autumn, making a lovely picture. It is about 9 km in a straight line from Gori, and Wikipedia gives about 10 km. A taxi from town is the easiest way. Dress modestly, women should cover their hair when entering, and do not photograph the frescoes without permission. The UK Foreign Office advises against all travel to nearby South Ossetia, so stay away from the administrative line and check official guidance.