The open chairlift
A climb in darkness and silence, half the experience.
Mohsen Ramezanimofrad — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Mohsen Ramezanimofrad — CC BY-SA 4.0
An observation station on the summit of **Mount Nuolja** at 900 metres inside Abisko National Park, built for one purpose: watching the northern lights from the best position available. Getting there is part of it — an **open chairlift** climbs the mountain in the dark and the cold over about twenty minutes, and you are issued a full thermal suit before boarding. This summit was chosen because it stands **above the fog layer** that sometimes settles in the valley, is completely away from artificial light, and lies under the "blue hole« that keeps Abisko's sky clear when the whole region is overcast. At the top is a heated building with a small exhibition on the physics of the aurora and a café, and an open viewing deck. Guides explain what is happening in the sky and help with camera settings. Note: **the season runs late September to the end of March** only — there is no aurora during the summer of permanent daylight. Note: **nobody can guarantee a sighting.** The lift closes for wind, and cloud happens. Allow more than one night.
A climb in darkness and silence, half the experience.
Fully open at the summit, with no artificial light at all.
Explaining the physics and setting up your camera.
Mount Nuolja, Abisko National Park — about 100 km west of Kiruna
The aurora is **much fainter in person than in photographs** — the spectacular images are all long exposures. With a camera: a wide lens at a wide aperture (f/2.8 or better), ISO between 1600 and 3200, and an exposure of **two to ten seconds** — longer than that and the aurora smears, because it moves. Set focus manually to infinity. A **tripod is essential**, not optional. With a modern phone: use night or manual mode and brace it against something solid. ⚠ **Batteries drain frighteningly fast at -20°C** — carry spares in an inside pocket against your body. ⚠ And do not bring a cold camera straight into a warm room; moisture condenses inside it.
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