The one left standing
In a district the waves erased.
An old white mosque on the coast in the Ulee Lheue district west of Banda Aceh, a few hundred metres from the sea, that became a worldwide symbol after the tsunami of 26 December 2004: the waves wiped out almost the entire district and killed most of its people, yet the mosque alone stayed standing amid the rubble, in images carried around the world. The mosque dates from the early twentieth century, one of the few buildings left from that era in the city, blending European and Middle Eastern styles with a dome, arches and tall windows. It was restored and enlarged after the disaster and keeps photographs of the devastation around it inside. It serves daily and Friday prayers; entry is free, and visitors are welcome outside prayer times in modest dress. It stands near Ulee Lheue port, where ferries leave for Weh island, so visit on your way to the port, and pair it with the Rahmatullah Mosque in Lampuuk, which also survived.
In a district the waves erased.
Early twentieth century.
Kept inside.
Ulee Lheue, on the coast west of Banda Aceh
Engineers credit its sturdy construction and foundations and its open windows and doors that let the water pass; the people of Aceh see it as a sign of mercy, and it moves every visitor.