Banteay Chhmar Temple

About this place

Banteay Chhmar Temple is a large Khmer complex in north-western Cambodia, in Banteay Meanchey Province, surrounded by a quiet village and an old moat. It is known for its great stone face towers and carved walls, in the style of the Bayon. It gives a real sense of discovery, as visitors are few and trees close around the fallen blocks. It was built under King Jayavarman VII, between the late 12th and early 13th centuries, the same king who built Angkor Thom. Its size shows its importance in that period, even so far from the capital. It then lay abandoned for many centuries and much of it collapsed, and restoration teams are now working to stabilise parts of it. You see towers with huge faces looking out through the trees, collapsed galleries that call for care as you walk, and walls carved with battle scenes and daily life in Khmer times. No side of the building is complete, and that is the secret of its appeal. Stillness holds for most of the day, above all in the early morning. It is about 113 km in a straight line from Siem Reap and about 55 km from Sisophon, and a car or driver is the best way to get there. The village has community-run homestays if you want to stay overnight. Wear clothing that covers the shoulders and knees. The UK Foreign Office currently advises against all but essential travel within 20 km of the Thai border, so check official guidance before planning.