The kelaghayi workshop
Printing with wooden blocks.
Asif Masimov — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Asif Masimov — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Asif Masimov — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Asif Masimov — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Asif Masimov — CC BY-SA 4.0
Basgal is a mountain village in the Ismayilli district, at about 998 m, and part of a state historical and cultural reserve. It is known for the kelaghayi, a traditional square silk scarf, and attracts anyone wanting to see a living craft in a quiet village of old stone houses and wide views. Historians say the village was founded in the 4th century, and that its silk goods were known by the 15th century. In November 2014 UNESCO added the art, symbolism, making and wearing of the kelaghayi to its intangible heritage list. The craft nearly vanished by the end of the Soviet period and is now concentrated in Sheki and Basgal. Silk is not woven here but comes from Sheki. The patterns are stamped on the scarves with wooden blocks made from trees such as pear and walnut. At the village silk centre you can watch the steps and make your own scarf in a workshop. The village also has paved lanes, old houses with timber balconies and a huge plane tree, and its edges look over green hills and metal-roofed houses. It is 24 km in a straight line from the Yeddi Gumbaz Mausoleums at Shamakhi, so both fit one trip. A car is the easiest way to reach it. Ask about workshop times before you go, since it is not always open. Some houses are ruined, so do not enter them, and respect residents' privacy. Bring a jacket, as the air is cooler than on the plain.
Printing with wooden blocks.
Stone houses with timber balconies.
Green all around the village.
Basgal reserve, Ismayilli district, central Azerbaijan
A traditional square silk scarf for women, added to UNESCO's intangible heritage list in 2014.
The silk centre offers workshops, but ask about times and prices before you go.