The rainbow stairs
272 painted steps up to the cave, best photographed from the bottom.
A gold statue more than forty-two metres tall greets you at the foot of the hill, and behind it 272 steps, painted in rainbow colours in 2018, climb to a vast limestone cave inside the rock. This is a working Hindu temple, more than a century old, and one of the most photographed sights in Malaysia. The main chamber at the top, the Temple or Cathedral Cave, is a natural hall with a ceiling tens of metres high and daylight falling through an opening above, with small shrines inside. It is free to enter; the other caves at the base, such as the Ramayana Cave, charge small separate fees. The climb itself is hard work in the humidity, so carry water, start early and rest halfway up rather than at the top. Two things change the visit. The macaques on the stairs are bold and will snatch bags, food and sunglasses, so keep your hands empty. And this is a place of worship: shoulders and knees must be covered for men and women alike, with wraps sold at the bottom of the stairs. During Thaipusam, in January or February, hundreds of thousands of pilgrims arrive; it is a remarkable sight but makes a family visit close to impossible. Getting there is easy on the KTM Komuter train from KL Sentral to Batu Caves station, about forty minutes, with the station right at the entrance. Go early, before nine: cooler, emptier, and the best light on the statue.
272 painted steps up to the cave, best photographed from the bottom.
A soaring natural hall lit by daylight through an opening in the roof.
One of the tallest of its kind in the world, brightest in morning sun.
Gombak, Selangor, about 13 km north of Kuala Lumpur
The climb is tiring for anyone who struggles with stairs, and there is no lift or alternative. Children usually enjoy it, but watch the monkeys and keep food out of sight. Anyone who cannot climb still gets the statue and the base, which is roughly half the visit.