Vast dome
And the eyes.
Nabin K. Sapkota — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Suyash.dwivedi — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Sgroey — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Bernard Gagnon — CC BY-SA 4.0
One of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world, standing in Boudha in north-east Kathmandu. Once surrounded by rice fields on the trade road to Tibet, it has become the heart of Nepal's Tibetan community, ringed by more than fifty monasteries. The vast white dome sits on three stepped terraces, crowned by a golden tower painted with great eyes looking in four directions, with prayer flags strung from it to the edges of the square. A long row of copper prayer wheels surrounds it. Its finest side is daily life: monks in red robes, pilgrims and residents circling the stupa clockwise at dawn and dusk, turning the wheels and murmuring prayers, between the houses, cafés and shops whose round row faces the dome. Foreigners pay NPR 400, per visitor guides. The best view is from the surrounding café terraces at sunset. Temples and stupas are living places of worship: dress modestly, walk clockwise around Buddhist stupas, remove shoes where asked, and note that some Hindu shrines admit Hindus only. The clearest months are October to December and March to April; the monsoon runs from June to September.
And the eyes.
With pilgrims.
All around.
Boudha, north-east Kathmandu
Early morning or before sunset, when monks and pilgrims circle the stupa; the best view is from the café terraces around it.