Top of Structure 2
Forest to the horizon.
Bernard DUPONT — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Bernard DUPONT — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Arian Zwegers from Brussels, Belgium — CC BY 2.0 · Bernard DUPONT — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Bernard DUPONT — CC BY-SA 2.0
One of the largest and most powerful Maya cities, capital of what historians call the «Kingdom of the Snake», which rivalled Tikal for dominance in the Classic period and is estimated to have had fifty thousand inhabitants. It lies in the heart of a vast tropical forest, and the site and forest together are on UNESCO's list as a mixed cultural and natural site. More than six thousand ancient structures have been identified here, the largest being «Structure 2», a huge pyramid over 45 metres high that rises above the treetops; from its summit a green sea of forest stretches to the horizon, broken by the tops of other pyramids. Calakmul's magic is its remoteness: few visitors, buildings swallowed by forest, howler monkeys and colourful birds all around, and you may see wild turkeys and spider monkeys on the road, as the reserve is one of Mexico's richest wildlife areas. Getting there takes planning: a long, narrow road through the reserve at low speed, three payment points, and the first community gate closes in the early afternoon, so set out early from Xpujil or a nearby lodge. Bring water, food and insect repellent.
Forest to the horizon.
Few visitors.
Monkeys and birds.
Deep in the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, southern Campeche state; about 60 km off the highway and 35 km from the Guatemalan border
By car or tour from Xpujil or a lodge in the area, along a long road through the reserve. Leave before dawn, as the first gate closes in the early afternoon, and carry cash for the three payment points.