Red brick
A lone temple amid fields.
Spiiiv — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Rinrais — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Rinrais — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Bisajunisa — CC BY-SA 4.0
A complex of red-brick Buddhist temples on the broad Padang Lawas plain, also known as the Portibi temples, dating roughly from the eleventh to thirteenth centuries, the era of the Pannai kingdom that flourished on the trade routes of this part of Sumatra and was linked with the Srivijaya world. The site has three main temples spaced apart, the largest Bahal I, a restored red-brick tower in a walled courtyard standing alone and imposing amid green fields and hills, with carving on its base. The place is quiet and rarely visited, far from the usual tourist trails. Entry is a token fee, and you can drive between the three temples in an hour or two. The site is about an hour and a half from Padang Sidempuan, for lovers of ruins taking the inland road between West Sumatra and Lake Toba. Come in the morning before the heat, and bring water and a hat.
A lone temple amid fields.
Spread across the plain.
Sumatra's forgotten history.
Portibi, North Padang Lawas regency, North Sumatra
For lovers of ruins and quiet roads, yes: it is among Sumatra's most remote and least crowded archaeological sites. Those after grander monuments will find Muaro Jambi larger and easier to reach.