The arms' crossroads
Como, Lecco and Colico from one tower โ the lake's living map.
Swiss79 โ Public domain ยท Diego Delso โ CC BY-SA 4.0 ยท Diego Delso โ CC BY-SA 4.0 ยท Emibuzz โ CC BY-SA 4.0
An art tradition of the owning family: each spring an artist wraps standing volunteers in plaster, the hollow shells left where they stood โ white ghosts gazing from the walls a whole season until rain melts them and others are born. They became Vezio's photographed emblem โ and standing as a mould an odd local honour.
Four up it is golden: a short adventure climb, tower and tunnels, falcons skimming heads, ghosts for stories โ rarely do a happy child's elements gather so on a token ticket. Strollers take the back road, not the steps.
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Two hundred metres above Varenna, Vezio castle has crouched on its spur a thousand years watching the lake's whole crossroads: from its tower the three arms show together โ Como, Lecco, Colico โ Bellagio on its point and the mountains a full circle: the widest eye on the lake, no exception. The castle is family-owned and opened with an endearing personal spirit: an olive garden in the fort, birds-of-prey displays on summer afternoons โ owls and falcons skimming seated heads with the lake for backdrop โ white plaster "ghosts" renewed by an artist each season standing on the walls to spook and be photographed, and a Great War tunnel in the depths. The climb from Varenna is a shaded stepped path of an easy half hour (or drive from behind) โ and the castle-view-falcon mix makes it the golden triangle's favourite family stop.
Como, Lecco and Colico from one tower โ the lake's living map.
Falcons stooping with the lake for stage.
White plaster figures โ the season's odd art rite.
Via del Castellano, 23828 Perledo (above Varenna)