The stepping stones
Two runs of stones in the riverbed beneath overhanging cliffs, and the whole reason to come.
Dave.Dunford — CC BY-SA 4.0 · AndyScott — CC BY-SA 4.0 · AndyScott — CC0 · Photochrom Print Collection — Public domain
At Chee Dale the gorge narrows until there is no room left for a path on the bank, so the path goes into the river instead: two runs of stepping stones set in the bed of the River Wye, which you hop along while limestone cliffs lean out above your head, the gorge walls rising some sixty metres. That short stretch, a few minutes at most, is what people come for, and it earns the trip on one non-negotiable condition: the river has to be low. The gorge is a Derbyshire Wildlife Trust nature reserve of around 54 hectares, free and open at all times. Above it runs the old Midland Railway, now the Monsal Trail, a traffic-free surfaced path of about 13.7 km that passes through the two Chee Tor tunnels, lit until dusk. The usual outing is a loop from the Miller's Dale station car park: out along the viaducts and tunnels on the trail, then down to the river and back beside it over wooden footbridges and the stones, roughly 5 to 6 km and two to three hours. In May and June wild orchids flower on the slopes, and you may catch a dipper bobbing on the water. Know the limits before you commit. The riverside path is earthy, rocky and root-crossed; the stepping stones flood and become impassable after any heavy rain, and the path is muddy and slippery from September to March, so this is strictly a summer walk in sturdy shoes. Pushchairs are out of the question. Children of six and up, on the other hand, will enjoy it more than any museum, the stone-hopping above all. Anyone who would rather not descend can stay on the Monsal Trail above, which is level, pushchair- and bike-friendly and runs high over the gorge with fine views, but misses the point of the place. A hire car makes it far easier: about 15 minutes east of Buxton on the A6 and the turn for Miller's Dale, or roughly 25 minutes from Bakewell. Miller's Dale car park is pay-and-display, 6.60 GBP for the day or 5.50 GBP up to four hours, charged 9am to 6pm, with toilets and a small cafe on the old station platform keeping seasonal hours. The alternative is Wye Dale car park on the A6 at the western end, pay-and-display on the same tariff and the closest start to the stones. There are no facilities inside the gorge itself, so carry water and food, and in the summer holidays the car park can be full by late morning.
Two runs of stones in the riverbed beneath overhanging cliffs, and the whole reason to come.
Two tunnels on the old railway, lit until dusk, boring through the hill above the gorge on the Monsal Trail.
Limestone slopes carpeted in wildflowers and wild orchids in early summer, with dippers on the river.
Miller's Dale Station car park, Wormhill, Buxton SK17 8SN
A pushchair never gets down to the river; the path is rocky with steps and stones in the water. With under-fives, stick to the level Monsal Trail above, from Miller's Dale station to the tunnels and viaducts. Older children love the stone-hopping, but hold hands at the stones and do not cross if the river is up.
That is the norm from autumn to spring: the path is likely to be wet, muddy or flooded between September and March. Climb back to the Monsal Trail and finish the loop from there, or head to Dovedale, where the stones are broader and easier, though they too go under after heavy rain. Never attempt to cross in flowing water.