Chiang Khan

About this place

Chiang Khan is a small town on the bank of the Mekong in northern Loei Province, northeast Thailand, facing Laos across the river, about 46 km north of Loei town in a straight line. It was founded in the late 19th century by villagers who crossed the Mekong, and later migrants arrived from Vietnam and China, so it grew into a trading hub thanks to its place on the river. People on both banks swapped goods, culture and language, then the town sat quiet for decades before travellers rediscovered it in the early 21st century. Two parallel streets of old two-storey wooden houses run along the river, with balconies and honey-coloured sliding wooden doors, many now guesthouses, cafés and small shops. Behind them the wide brown Mekong flows past, with the green hills of Laos on the far bank. In the evening the main street closes to cars and becomes a walking market of food and crafts. Early in the morning visitors climb Phu Thok hill to watch mist over the river, or give food to the monks on their alms round. The cool season from October to February is the loveliest and busiest time.