Chirag Gala

About this place

Chirag Gala is a ruined ancient fortress on a mountaintop overlooking the Caspian coastal plains north of Baku. Its name means «Lamp Castle», and it draws walkers and history lovers, since vehicles struggle to reach it and the climb rewards you with views across tens of kilometres. It dates to the 4th or 5th century AD and is credited to the Sasanians. It served as a lookout post in the Gilgilchay defensive system, which also included Baku and Derbent, and guards lit torches to warn of invaders, hence the name. It was also used to defend the Quba Khanate in the 18th century, then fell out of use, and was partly renovated in the mid 20th century. The fortress is an irregular rectangle, with deep cliffs on its northeast side and 17 towers, one large and 16 small. The towers allow views over the surrounding country from far off. You climb through mountain forest and it suddenly appears between the trees, and the restored sections contrast with the worn old stone. The road is rough and unsuitable for most vehicles, so the climb is on foot, with mountain shoes and water. Snow can cover the paths in winter. It is 47 km in a straight line from Quba. One guide suggests a bus from Baku towards Quba and then a taxi, though a private car or tour is easier. It suits a day trip from Baku or Quba.