The vitrified ramparts
Grassy banks hiding stones that fused at over 1,000°C; the inner wall is radiocarbon-dated to the fourth century BC.
Ymblanter — CC BY-SA 4.0 · York Museums Trust, Rebecca Griffiths, 2017-08-24 15:26:03 — CC BY 2.0 · Dave Conner from Inverness, Scotland — CC BY 2.0 · BIG ALBERT — CC0
On this wooded hill above Inverness, the story goes, St Columba found the gates barred against him around 565, made the sign of the cross, and watched them swing open of their own accord - along with the heart of the Pictish king Bridei. That is Adomnán's account of the saint's life, and nobody can prove the fortress in question was this one; Urquhart Castle and Inverness Castle have both been proposed instead. But the 1971-72 dig turned up a clay mould for casting a fine metal mount and sherds of pottery imported from France, so whoever lived on this summit in the sixth or seventh century was eating off royal tableware. What you find at the top (172 m) is startling in its modesty: grassy earth banks around an oblong roughly 75 m by 23 m, under tall pines. No dressed stone, no gateway. The secret is inside the bank itself. Radiocarbon dates put the inner wall in the fourth century BC, and it burnt so fiercely that its stones melted and fused - the vitrified forts Scotland is famous for, and Craig Phadrig is one of the best known. When storm-felled trees tore into the rampart a few years ago, a stretch of that fused rock was briefly exposed before being covered over again. In practice this is a public forest run by Forestry and Land Scotland: a small free car park about 400 m up Leachkin Brae, roughly 3 km west of the centre, and two waymarked loops signposted from it. The Hill Fort Trail (1.9 km) climbs steeply, with wooden steps, to the summit in around 45 minutes; the Craig Phadrig Trail (2.3 km) circles the forest on wider, gentler gravel in about an hour. Expect mud after rain - so on most days - though ordinary trainers cope in summer. A pushchair will not make it up to the fort; the forest loop is doable with effort. The reward is the view north over the Beauly Firth, the Kessock Bridge and the Black Isle, with Ben Wyvis on a clear day - with the honest caveat that the trees have grown and now hide part of the panorama. Go if you are based in Inverness for a couple of days and want an hour of fresh air and a view with no ticket and no crowds; do not detour for it. In winter the light goes before four and the path is slippery, so make it a morning outing.
Grassy banks hiding stones that fused at over 1,000°C; the inner wall is radiocarbon-dated to the fourth century BC.
Gaps in the trees frame the Kessock Bridge, the Black Isle and, on a clear day, Ben Wyvis.
The traditional setting for the 565 meeting said to have opened the Pictish court to Christianity - though Urquhart and Inverness Castle are also proposed.
Leachkin Brae, Inverness IV3 8PN
No - with one day, choose Culloden or the loch. Craig Phadrig has no visible ruins, only turf banks under trees; its value is a free hour of walking and a good view for anyone staying several days who wants out of the centre without a long drive.
Children from about five enjoy the climb and the wooden steps, but a pushchair will never reach the fort; the forest loop is wider and gentler yet muddy after rain, so only a big-wheeled buggy will manage.