Cyrene

About this place

Cyrene is an ancient Greek colony and Roman city near Shahhat in north-eastern Libya, on a ridge of the Jebel Akhdar uplands. It was one of the five great cities of the region and gave Cyrenaica its name. UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site in 1982, and a vast necropolis surrounds it. Settlers from the island of Thera, today's Santorini, founded it in the late 7th century BC, though the Greeks themselves credited Apollo. A royal dynasty called the Battiads ruled it, growing rich on waves of immigration and the export of horses and the medicinal plant silphium. By the 5th century BC its power had spread to the other cities of Cyrenaica. You see the Temple of Zeus with its huge stone columns, a colonnaded square, theatres, baths and colourful mosaic floors. The site drops towards the Sanctuary of Apollo at the edge, where the land opens out to a wide view towards the sea. It turns green in spring and rewards a slow walk, so allow enough time. It is about 1 km in a straight line from Shahhat, about 11 km from Al-Bayda and about 13 km from Apollonia. The ground is stepped, so wear comfortable shoes, and bring a layer in winter, as Jebel Akhdar is cool. Sources say foreigners need a tour operator or local sponsor to visit Libya. The UK Foreign Office currently advises against all but essential travel to this area, so check official guidance before planning.