The round bastions
Close-set around the fort.
Fazal Khaliq — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Mhtoori — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Mhtoori — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Fazal Khaliq — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Fazal Khaliq — CC BY-SA 4.0
Derawar Fort is a fortress in the Cholistan Desert of Punjab, about 20 km south of Ahmedpur East, its forty bastions visible from miles away. Its walls run 1,500 m around and rise up to 30 m high. It is among the most thrilling sights in Pakistan, above all in the golden light at either end of the day. It was founded as a fort of the Bhati clan in the 9th century, with sources dating it to 858 under Rai Jajja Bhati. Nawab Sadeq Mohammad Khan renovated it in 1732. The area once held an Indus Valley culture, but the Hakra River changed course about 600 BC and the land turned to desert. You see huge mud walls with close-set round bastions, decorated in patterned brick and crumbling in places. Inside are courts and ruined buildings that show how much restoration it needs. Beside the fort are a marble mosque and some village houses. Do not climb the fragile walls, and take care at the high edges. It is about 78 km in a straight line from Bahawalpur, with the last stretch crossing desert land. Hire a car with a driver who knows the area, bring plenty of water and avoid summer, as the heat is harsh. Permission may be needed to go inside.
Close-set around the fort.
Designs on the walls.
Golden at either end of the day.
Cholistan Desert, Bahawalpur District, Punjab, Pakistan
Permission may be needed, while the walls are easily seen from outside.
Winter, near sunrise or sunset, as summer heat is harsh.