Desert solitude
Far from paved roads.
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The largest of Morocco's great sand seas, at the far southern end of the Draa valley, some fifty-six kilometres south-west of the village of M'Hamid El Ghizlane, where the paved road ends. Some of its dunes rise more than fifty metres above the surrounding land; the Jebel Bani marks its northern edge, and to the west stretches the dry Lake Iriki, now part of a national park. Its distance from paved roads makes it quieter and more remote than Erg Chebbi at Merzouga: visitors reach it only by four-wheel drive along desert tracks in two to three hours, or by camel on treks lasting several days. The usual experience is a night in one of the camps scattered among the dunes, after climbing a high dune to watch the sunset, followed by dinner and music around the fire under a clear, star-filled sky, and another climb at sunrise. You can return westwards across the bed of Lake Iriki towards Foum Zguid instead of going back through M'Hamid. Walking in the dunes is free, while vehicles, camps and camels are priced by operators and guesthouses, so agree everything that is included. Never drive into the sand without an experienced driver, take plenty of water and warm clothes for cold winter nights, and avoid the scorching summer.
Far from paved roads.
Stars, fire and music.
A dry lakebed.
About fifty-six kilometres south-west of M'Hamid El Ghizlane, Zagora Province
From M'Hamid El Ghizlane by four-wheel drive with an experienced driver, two to three hours along desert tracks; operators and guesthouses in M'Hamid and Zagora arrange the trips.