The nutmeg islands
Once worth more than gold.
A pentagonal stone fort built by the Dutch in the early seventeenth century on a hill above Neira town, to guard their monopoly on the nutmeg trade, a spice that grew nowhere in the world but the tiny Banda islands and was worth more than gold in Europe. A bloody history of spice wars played out around it. With its restored walls and five towers, the fort overlooks one of Indonesia's loveliest views: the clear blue bay, the conical Gunung Api volcano and surrounding islands cloaked in nutmeg and cinnamon groves. Here the story of the Banda islands comes alive; the English traded one of them, Run island, for Manhattan in America in 1667. A modest fee or a donation is paid to the keeper. The upper walls are reached by a narrow stairway. Come in the late afternoon for sunset over the volcano, and combine it with Hatta's exile house and the nutmeg plantations. Banda is reached by limited flights from Ambon or by ship.
Once worth more than gold.
Seventeenth century.
The 1667 swap.
On the hill above Neira town, Banda Neira, Maluku
By limited small flights from Ambon, or by ferry and fast boat from Ambon in six to eight hours depending on the vessel; services are few, so plan ahead.
