Fuerte de San Miguel

About this place

Fuerte de San Miguel is an old stone fort in Rocha Department, six kilometres south of Laguna Merín and near the city of Chuy. It stands on San Miguel Hill, with rock walls, small sentry turrets and tile roofs, looking over broad green plains, and it gives a clear picture of the rivalry between Spain and Portugal over this land. It began as a simple post raised by Spanish forces in 1734, which the Portuguese occupied three years later. The present building was begun on 17 October 1737 and is attributed to the military engineer José da Silva Paes, though some name other Portuguese engineers. Its plan was at first rectangular, then around 1740 became a star with four pentagonal bastions in the Vauban style. You enter by a narrow gate guarded by a domed turret, reaching a grassy court ringed by low stone buildings with tile roofs. The ramparts carry old cannon aimed over the plain and black lanterns by the steps, and yellow and orange lichen covers the stone. Sunset is the finest time here, when the sky turns orange behind the turrets. It is 7.4 km in a straight line from Chuy and 31.5 km from Fortaleza de Santa Teresa, so both fit one day. A car is the best way to get here. The stones are uneven and much of the ramparts has no railing, so take care with children and do not climb the turrets. Bring a hat and jacket, as the hill is windy, and check opening times before you go.