Haa Valley

About this place

The Haa Valley is a narrow valley in western Bhutan, beyond the Chele La pass from Paro. It is almost free of crowds, with timber villages under broad roofs, fields and two old temples. The name suggests hiddenness, which suits a place that still feels remote despite being close to the airport, and it works well for anyone who has seen Paro and Thimphu and wants somewhere quieter. Haa is the second least-populated district in Bhutan. The Haa Chhu flows through it from Mount Jomolhari, and three mountains called the «Three Brothers» watch over it. Local history tells of the temples Lhakhang Karpo and Lhakhang Nagpo, the White and the Black, which tradition dates to the 7th century, a date based more on legend than on documents. You walk among large houses with carved timber fronts, painted windows and wall paintings, with stone walls lining the road and fruit trees. Green mountains rise on both sides, and the narrow valley floor carries the stream. On the way you cross the Chele La at about 3,988 m, where prayer flags and distant mountains appear. It is about 14 km in a straight line from Paro, but the road over the pass is about 65 km and around 3 hours, with figures differing between sources. Bring warm clothes, as nights can be cold. Sources mention festivals in July and September, so check their dates. Foreign visitors also pay a Sustainable Development Fee of about 100 US dollars a night, and entry is usually arranged through a company with a licensed guide.