Wild reindeer
Among Europe's last genuinely wild herds.
Rüdiger Stehn from Kiel, Deutschland — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Sindre Skrede — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Unknown authorUnknown author — Public domain · Unknown authorUnknown author — Public domain
A national park around the Hallingskarvet massif, a long rock plateau rising like a wall above the surrounding uplands, its highest summit Folarskardnuten at about two thousand two hundred and fifty metres. The mountain's shape is unusual: instead of a peak it is a flat-topped mass with very steep sides running about thirty-five kilometres. The reason is geological — a hard rock layer resisted glacial erosion while the softer layers around it were scoured away. The park is home to wild reindeer, among the last genuinely wild reindeer herds in Europe. Their presence is one of the reasons for the area's protection, and it also means seasonal restrictions on some routes to avoid disturbing the herd. The philosopher Arne Næss, founder of the deep ecology movement, built a hut on the mountain's flank and wrote much of his work there. The area is wilderness with no facilities — serious planning is necessary.
Among Europe's last genuinely wild herds.
Hard rock survived while everything around was scoured.
The philosopher wrote much of his deep ecology work here.
Between Hol and Aurland, east of the Sognefjord
An old legal principle called allemannsretten giving everyone the right to pass through and camp on uncultivated land whoever owns it, provided clear rules are respected: stay a hundred and fifty metres from the nearest dwelling, spend no more than two nights in the same spot, light no fire in forest between April and September, and leave no trace. This right is what makes walking and camping in Norway open without permits.
Use the hut network of the Norwegian Trekking Association, DNT: hundreds of mountain huts spaced a day's walk apart, some staffed with food and some self-service opened by a standard key bought from the association. Routes are marked with a red T on the rocks in summer and with poles in winter. Do not rely on a phone: carry a paper map and compass and know how to use them.
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