Hisor Fortress

About this place

Hisor Fortress is a historic site near the city of Hisor, in a valley ringed by high mountains west of Dushanbe. Its best-known feature is a gateway between two round brick towers, once the entrance to the Bukharan governor's residence. Old madrasas and Islamic buildings stand before it, so a visit combines fortress and religious architecture, and it is the easiest historic trip from the capital. Tradition says the fort goes back to Cyrus the Great and was captured 21 times, figures repeated in sources and hard to prove. Muhammad Shaybani took it in 1504, Babur held it briefly, and it returned to the Uzbeks soon after 1511. It then became a semi-independent principality supplying troops to Bukhara, and it stayed the seat of its governor. Broad steps climb between gardens to the gate and its towers, with raised ground behind looking over the valley. Below runs a stone street between buildings, with a madrasa of the 16th and 17th centuries around a wide arcaded yard, and domes of brick and pale tile. On the other side are small buildings with arched rooms used to show crafts and old tools. It is about 20 km from central Dushanbe in a straight line, so half a day by taxi is enough. The site is exposed, so bring a hat and water in summer. Dress modestly at the religious buildings, and ask before taking photos inside. The square gets crowded at Nowruz, when public celebrations take place here.