The long wall
Pink brick and buttresses.
Ninara from Helsinki, Finland — CC BY 2.0 · Hans Birger Nilsen — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Ninara from Helsinki, Finland — CC BY 2.0 · Ninara from Helsinki, Finland — CC BY 2.0 · Ninara from Helsinki, Finland — CC BY 2.0
Hulbuk Fortress is an archaeological site in the town of Hulbuk in Khatlon Region, southern Tajikistan, 26 km south-west of Kulob. Hulbuk was a medieval town whose palatial buildings point to a rich and powerful court. Today a long wall with towers and a minaret greets you, and it is hard to miss from the road, standing out on the plain. Researchers suspect that Hulbuk housed the Banijurids, a Turco-Iranian dynasty from eastern Central Asia. Excavation began in 1953 and went on for over 40 years, uncovering a citadel and palace remains. Much of its story is still a matter of estimate, and sources say no full topographical map of the site has been drawn. The walls you see are of pinkish-brown brick, and much of them have been rebuilt in recent years, so do not take them all as old. Slanting buttresses support the wall, with a minaret topped by a small turquoise dome at one end. At the centre is a large gate with a panel of carved brick, and a small museum has a model showing how the complex looked. It is about 25 km from Kulob in a straight line and about 112 km from Dushanbe, so take a car with a driver and pair it with Kulob. The site is exposed, and summers in this region are very hot, so spring and autumn suit best. Ask about going inside, as this may depend on a keeper being there.
Pink brick and buttresses.
A panel of carved brick.
The old complex.
Hulbuk town, Khatlon Region, Tajikistan
Much was rebuilt recently on the old site, so ask about the original parts.
Spring and autumn suit best, as summers are very hot here.