Humaitá Ruins

About this place

The Humaitá Ruins are the remains of the church of San Carlos Borromeo in a small town on a bend of the River Paraguay, in the southwest of the country. Its red brick walls and open towers stand in the grass, the best known survival of the Fortress of Humaitá, a key site of South America's greatest 19th-century war. The name means «old stone» in Guaraní. The site mattered from the late 18th century, and from 1854 to 1868 it became a fortress commanding the sharp bend in the river, where the channel was narrow, earning it the name «Gibraltar of South America». It became the main theatre of the Paraguayan War, and Allied bombardment destroyed the church during that war. The broken walls make a strong impression, with a white memorial and a small statue before them. Nearby stand a newer white church now in use, old buildings and big trees around the square. The town's historical museum, in a building once used as military headquarters, holds items from the war. It is 31 km in a straight line from the town of Pilar, so both fit one trip. The town is quiet, living from cattle and fishing, so do not expect many services. This ground carries the memory of a harsh war, so treat it with respect and do not climb the walls. Summers are very hot, so bring water and a hat, and ask about museum times.