Kandovan

About this place

Kandovan is a village in the foothills of Mount Sahand, in Osku County, East Azerbaijan, a rare example of cliff dwellings still lived in. Its homes are dug into volcanic rock cones, in a way that recalls Cappadocia in Turkey. These homes are locally called karaan, and from afar they look like stone beehives. The homes were cut into fairly soft ash-flow rock from Mount Sahand behind them. Local tradition ties the village's start to people fleeing the Mongol invasion in the 13th century, giving an age of about 700 years in common accounts, though this is more local story than documented history. Over the centuries residents have added rooms, porches, windows and stairs. You climb a winding stone stairway among the cones, under small coloured windows and wooden doors, with carpets sometimes spread in the sun before them. At the bottom you find sellers of honey and local herbs. These are homes where people live, so do not enter without permission, ask before photographing them, and keep your voice down in the upper lanes. It is about 34 km in a straight line from Tabriz and easy to reach by car. The stairs are steep and uneven, so wear sturdy shoes. Winter here is cold, and spring is the finest time. The UK Foreign Office currently advises against all travel to Iran and warns that British nationals risk detention, so check official guidance before making any plans. We could not confirm the current state of this site.