The white stupa
A gold tip on the plain.
David Berkowitz from New York, NY, USA — CC BY 2.0 · David Berkowitz — CC BY 2.0 · David Berkowitz from New York, NY, USA — CC BY 2.0 · David Berkowitz from New York, NY, USA — CC BY 2.0
Khamar Monastery is a Buddhist monastery in the eastern Gobi, south of Sainshand city. It stands in a broad brown plain, so its white stupa and colourful gates are a distant mark in the emptiness. Many Mongolian visitors come for its spiritual value, and travellers reach it via the train from Ulaanbaatar to Sainshand. It was founded in 1820 by Dulduityn Danzanravjaa, a 17-year-old monk who became known as a poet, educator and critic of his society. It held a public library, a museum, a poetry hall, the country's first professional theatre and a school for children. It reached some 80 temples and 500 monks, was destroyed in 1937 and has been rebuilt since 1990. You see a large white stupa topped with gold, gates and small buildings dotted over the plain, and old ruined bases among them. Some way off are caves where monks retreated for 108 continuous days. Because work continues here, you may find new buildings or workshops. The land is bare, so the buildings look small against the horizon. It is about 34 km in a straight line from Sainshand, so take a car from the city or a tour. Bring water and a hat, as shade is scarce and wind strong, and dress modestly. May to September suits it best. Follow the customs of other visitors and ask before photographing people. The UK Foreign Office reports fuel shortages that may disrupt travel to remote areas, so check before you set off.
A gold tip on the plain.
108 continuous days.
A broad plain around it.
South of Sainshand, Dornogovi Province, south-eastern Mongolia
A monk, poet and educator who founded the monastery in 1820 and created its theatre, school and library.
Travel to Sainshand by train or car, then by car about 34 km in a straight line.