The citadel
Towers along the crest of the rock.
Gaga.vaa — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Image by Makalu from Pixabay — CC0 · Gaga.vaa — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Dmitrij Rodionov — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Makalu from Pixabay — CC0
Khertvisi Fortress crowns a high rocky spur above the meeting of the Mtkvari and its tributary the Paravani, by Khertvisi village in Aspindza municipality, southern Georgia. One of the country's oldest fortresses, it is a monument of national significance and, with Vardzia, has been on UNESCO's tentative list since 2007. The 11th-century chronicler Leonti Mroveli lists Khertvisi among strongholds Alexander the Great found in Georgia, a tradition historians reject. A now-lost inscription tied the fortress church to 985, and by the 12th century Khertvisi was a town. An earthquake in 1283 and the Mongols left it in ruins; an inscription over the gate records that Zakaria, a royal treasurer, built the tower and walls in 1354-1356. The Ottomans held it from 1578, bar brief recaptures such as King Erekle II's in 1771, until Russia took it in 1828. A paved path, laid with a visitor centre in 2017-2018, climbs to the gate. The citadel follows the rock's long crest, its walls set with strong towers, and a lower wall guards the south side. St George's, a small hall chapel of tuff, has its apse partly cut into the rock, and a north-western tunnel once brought up river water. The walls look down both gorges. Khertvisi stands where the Vardzia road leaves the Akhaltsikhe-Akhalkalaki road, about 45 km by road from Akhaltsikhe and 90 km, or 1.5 to 2 hours' drive, from Borjomi. Vardzia is about 16 km south by road, an easy pairing. Rabati Castle in Akhaltsikhe lies 31 km north-west as the crow flies, and Sapara Monastery 25 km.
Towers along the crest of the rock.
Tuff walls, apse partly rock-cut.
The Mtkvari and Paravani below.
Khertvisi village, above the Mtkvari and Paravani confluence, Aspindza municipality
Minibuses from Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia pass below the fortress, so ask the driver to drop you at Khertvisi. From the Vardzia junction on the Akhaltsikhe-Akhalkalaki road it is about 650 m on foot, over the Paravani bridge and up to the gate; check timetables at Akhaltsikhe bus station.
Yes: the national heritage agency lists guided tours at 15 GEL in Georgian and 30 GEL in a foreign language, on top of the ticket.