Khorog

About this place

Khorog is the capital of the Gorno-Badakhshan region, a small city of about 30,500 people at 2,200 metres in the Pamir Mountains. It stands where the Ghunt meets the Panj, and the Panj separates it from Afghanistan. It is known for the poplars that fill its streets, and it is a natural stop for anyone travelling the Pamir Highway. Until the late 19th century the area was disputed between the Emir of Bukhara, the Shah of Afghanistan, Russia and Britain. The Russians came out ahead after the Great Game, which fixed the Panj as Afghanistan's northern border, and they built a fort here in 1896. Khorog became the regional capital in 1925, and Soviet leaders encouraged settlers to come. From above you see the city green at the bottom of a narrow valley between bare brown mountains, with fast water running through it. The botanical garden on the hill has paths among pines and views over the valley. The covered market has sellers of vegetables, clothes and tools, and on the edge of town the University of Central Asia campus stands in red and yellow among the trees. The botanical garden is under 2 km from the centre in a straight line. The city has cafes and simple places to stay, so it suits a rest day before the Wakhan Valley. Services change with the season, so carry cash. A separate travel permit is required for the Gorno-Badakhshan region on top of a visa. The UK Foreign Office warns of security risks in the region and along the Afghan border, so read the current advice before you plan.