The three windmills
Abandoned stone towers guarding the bay's mouth.
iant71 โ CC BY 3.0 ยท Ilkka Simomaa โ CC BY 4.0 ยท Jean Housen โ CC BY-SA 3.0 ยท 7777777kz โ CC BY 3.0
**One day for the north and one for the south โ the island is small, so the driving is short but slow.** โ **Day one โ the south and Vathy**: walk the **Vathy waterfront** and the bay in the morning; โ **then swim at Dexa, Filiatro or Sarakiniko** โ coves minutes away (โ shingle, so water shoes); โ **and in the afternoon climb to the Katharon monastery** โ high up, **with a view over the whole island and the sea**, โ **on a narrow winding road**, and modest dress is required. โ **Day two โ the north**: **Stavros** first (the main northern village, with a small museum and Mycenaean sites); โ **then Frikes** โ a small quiet harbour; โ **then Kioni** for lunch or the evening โ **the prettiest, so make it last**. โ **The driving**: distances are **short** (nothing further than 30 km) โ **but the roads are narrow, mountainous and winding** โ **allow twice what you expect**, and avoid driving at night if you can. โ **The isthmus** between the two halves is worth a stop: **sea on both sides of you**. โ **Fill up with fuel in Vathy.**
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**Ithaca's prettiest village: coloured houses dropping to a small bay, with three windmills at its mouth** โ in the island's northeast. The village is a **natural amphitheatre**: houses ranked up the slopes around a **narrow bay** in pale colours with red tiles and flowered balconies, **and boats moored at the bottom directly in front of the tavernas**. โ **Three abandoned stone windmills** stand on the headland at the bay's mouth โ the familiar image of Kioni. โ **Kioni came through the 1953 earthquake relatively better** than the island's south, **so original houses survive** โ which is why it looks different from Vathy. โ **It is a yachting destination** โ and the bay fills with them in the evening. โ There is no real beach: **rock ledges** and small coves nearby.
Abandoned stone towers guarding the bay's mouth.
Yachts and lights on still water in front of the tavernas.
Faรงades that survived 1953, in colour and red tile.
Kioni, 28301 Ithaca, Greece