The sculpture garden
Twenty-five hectares of woodland with Rodin and Moore.
Gerardus — Public domain · Ziko van Dijk — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Ziko van Dijk — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Ziko van Dijk — CC BY-SA 4.0
By train from Utrecht to Ede-Wageningen, then a bus to the park entrance, about ninety minutes in all. Inside the park you take a free white bicycle and ride about five kilometres to the museum through open woodland. It is worth it because you see ninety Van Goghs without Amsterdam's crowds, walk a first-rank sculpture garden, and spend a day in real Dutch nature — three things in one trip.
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The Kröller-Müller holds the second-largest Van Gogh collection in the world after his own museum in Amsterdam: some ninety paintings and a hundred and eighty drawings — and yet far fewer visitors know it, because it stands not in a city but inside a national park. The collection is one woman's work. Helene Kröller-Müller began buying in 1907 and was among the first to see Van Gogh as a major artist while he was still relatively unknown and his prices low. She gathered more than eleven thousand works across decades, then gave the collection to the Dutch state in 1935 on condition that a museum be built for it on this site. Behind the museum is one of the largest sculpture gardens in Europe: twenty-five hectares of woodland and grass holding work by Rodin, Moore, Serra, Dubuffet and others, walked among without a fence. And the museum sits inside the Hoge Veluwe national park, which provides free white bicycles for crossing its paths — and that is the right shape for the day.
Twenty-five hectares of woodland with Rodin and Moore.
A woman who bought Van Gogh before anyone knew him.
Houtkampweg 6, 6731 Otterlo