Kuthodaw Pagoda

About this place

Kuthodaw Pagoda is a Buddhist stupa at the foot of Mandalay Hill, holding what is known as the world's largest book. Its grounds contain 729 marble slabs inscribed on both sides, each in a small white shrine, together carrying the full text of the Tipitaka, the Buddhist canon in Pali. The gilded central stupa rises 57 metres, a grand sight that remains quiet and uncrowded. King Mindon built it in 1857 as part of founding his new capital, wanting to leave a lasting work, and he had the canon set in stone to outlive him. Work began in 1860, the crown was mounted in 1862, and the inscriptions opened to the public on 4 May 1868. The slabs stand in rows within three enclosures, 42 in the first, 168 in the middle and 519 in the third. At the centre you see a stepped golden stupa modelled on the Shwezigon near Bagan, a red stair at the entrance and a big bell between two red columns. Around it run long rows of small white shrines, each with an iron door and a marble slab inside covered in fine script. The rows of white under a blue sky are the finest thing here. Mandalay Palace is about 2 km away in a straight line. Visitors go barefoot, so removing your shoes is a must, and the ground is hot at midday. Choose early morning or late in the day. Do not touch the slabs, and dress modestly. The UK Foreign Office advises against all but essential travel to this area, so read the current advice before you plan.