La Vega Vieja

About this place

La Vega Vieja is an archaeological park holding the remains of the first Concepción de la Vega, one of the largest European cities in the hemisphere in the early 16th century. An earthquake destroyed it in 1562, leaving walls of a fort and a cathedral, and it is among the most striking sites in Dominican history despite few visitors. Christopher Columbus built a fort here in 1494, and his brother Bartholomew founded the town in 1495. After gold was found in quantity in 1508 it became the island's first gold boomtown, with a cathedral, two convents and a hospital, and the first coin was minted here. The earthquake of 2 December 1562 buried it, and survivors moved to the present city on the Camú River. The finest sight is the fort's remains, with a deep round well whose brick and stone walls hold small arches above still green water. A short way off stand the cathedral ruins, a mass of red brick wrapped in roots and branches, among small houses and banana plots. There is also a yellow memorial with plaques and a small museum explaining the site. It is about 24 km in a straight line from Santiago and 1.4 km from Santo Cerro, so one visit covers both. The ruins lie in scattered spots, so you may need to ask locals the way. Do not climb the walls, which are fragile, and stay back from the edge of the well. Respect the neighbouring homes, and bring water and mosquito repellent.