A former cavalry hall
Brick, iron and a high vault, its military fabric left visible.
Vanja Jugovac — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Josipkontaart — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Josipkontaart — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Josipkontaart — CC BY-SA 4.0
A contemporary art centre in an old military building west of central Zagreb, an early twentieth-century cavalry riding hall. The building is part of the attraction: a brick and iron structure with a high vaulted roof, converted with its military industrial fabric left visible rather than hidden. The collection is private and holds Croatian contemporary art from the mid-twentieth century to today, a field few people know outside the region. The programme is rotating exhibitions, so the value follows what is on. What distinguishes it in Zagreb is that it is not an official museum: it is a private space with a café, a restaurant and evening events, used as a social place rather than a silent gallery. You should know that hours may be limited or tied to the programme, and it may close between exhibitions — check before going. It lies west of the centre and needs a tram or about twenty minutes on foot.
Brick, iron and a high vault, its military fabric left visible.
A field little known outside the region, from the mid-twentieth century on.
A café, a restaurant and evening events — not a silent gallery.
West of central Zagreb
The Upper Town with St Mark's church and its coloured tiled roof, the Dolac market, and the Museum of Broken Relationships, among the city's best known and most original. Zagreb is a city of cafés and walking more than of great monuments, and that is part of its character.
Yes for anyone who wants a genuine central European city without tourist crowds. Zagreb is not Dubrovnik — no sea, no walls — but it is a city people live in, with fair prices, cafés on every street and an active cultural life. It merits two days and makes a good base for the rest of Croatia.
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