Lo Manthang

About this place

Lo Manthang is a walled town in the far north of Mustang, near the border with Tibet, and the heart of the old region of Lo. With its mud walls, narrow lanes and green fields in arid land, it looks like a place from another age. Its culture and language are tied to Tibet, making it a very different experience from the rest of Nepal. The Lo region forms the northern two-thirds of Mustang District, while the south is home to the Thakali people. In 2007 about twelve caves were discovered north of Annapurna and near the village, in cliffs at around 4,300 m, decorated with old Buddhist paintings dated to about the 13th century. Entry to the area remains limited by special permits. You pass through a mud wall into white houses and lanes shared by people, goats and horses, and walk past tall red monasteries such as Choprang Gompa. Outside the wall are rows of colourful Buddhist stupas, with sculpted white and grey hills behind. From above you see the town among green and yellow fields, like an island in a mountain desert. It is about 50 km in a straight line from Jomsom, and companies offer walking routes or jeep trips. Entry requires a special permit, a group of at least two and a licensed guide. Bring warm clothes and sun protection, as the air is dry and the wind strong. Spring and autumn are best. Ask before photographing people, and respect the monasteries.