Copper domes, Moorish arches and a clock tower, best at night.
Haakon S. Krohn — CC BY-SA 3.0 · CEphoto, Uwe Aranas — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Marcin Konsek — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Marcin Konsek — CC BY-SA 4.0
At midnight on 31 August 1957 the Union Jack came down here and the flag of an independent Malaya went up for the first time, which is why the square is called Merdeka, independence. At one end stands a ninety-five-metre flagpole, among the tallest in the world, in front of a broad lawn that was once the cricket ground of the colonial Royal Selangor Club. The best thing about the square is the building facing it: the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, finished in 1897 in a Moorish-Indian style with copper domes, arches and a clock tower that recalls Big Ben. The building alone justifies the visit, and it looks its best at night, fully lit, its lights reflected across the grass. The square is free and always open, and you need no more than half an hour. Come early in the morning before the heat, or after dark for photographs, rather than at midday, when there is almost no shade. On 31 August it becomes the stage for the National Day parade and is crowded and partly closed. It is steps from Central Market and Chinatown, close to the Masjid Jamek light-rail station, and beside the historic Masjid Jamek at the meeting of the two rivers, the oldest mosque in the city.
Copper domes, Moorish arches and a clock tower, best at night.
Ninety-five metres on the spot where the flag first rose in 1957.
The city's oldest mosque at the river confluence, minutes away.
Jalan Raja, central Kuala Lumpur
Sultan Abdul Samad BuildingGleaming copper domes, horseshoe arches and a forty-one-metre clock tower: finis1 minute walk4.6
St Mary's CathedralAn elegant small Anglican church at the northern end of Merdeka Square, one of t2 minutes walk
Kuala Lumpur City GalleryA small gallery on the history of Kuala Lumpur in an elegant colonial building o3 minutes walk
Sultan Abdul Samad Jamek MosqueThis is where Kuala Lumpur was born. At exactly this spot the Klang and Gombak r3 minutes walk4.5
National Textile MuseumA museum of Malaysian textiles in a handsome historic building beside the Sultan3 minutes walkNot on its own, but it is an essential stop on an old-town walk with Masjid Jamek, Central Market and Chinatown. Make it the last stop after dark to see the buildings lit.