Mixco Viejo

About this place

Mixco Viejo is a Postclassic Maya city in the northeast of Chimaltenango Department, about 50 km north of Guatemala City. Its stone temples and ball courts sit on high ridges between deep ravines, so the site feels quiet and open, and it sees few visitors despite being close to the capital. The name «Old Mixco» comes from a mistake, as it was thought to be the Poqomam capital mentioned in colonial records. Scholars now identify it as Jilotepeque Viejo, capital of the Chajoma kingdom, and the mix-up long confused its study. It holds groups of buildings remodelled over time, with one major group rebuilt around the 13th century. You walk across flat ridges dotted with stepped temples and platforms, with distant mountains in every direction. The site has two ball courts, unusual for its period, suggesting it may have been a regional centre for the game. Neat walls of pale stone rise here, with facing temples on broad steps, and the ground turns green in the rainy season. It lies 4 km from where the Pixcaya and Motagua rivers meet and is easiest to reach by car, as the last stretch may be unpaved. There is little shade, so bring a hat and water, and allow two hours for walking. Keep to the steps, as surfaces can be uneven, and do not climb the restored walls. Leave early to avoid traffic out of the capital.