Steam vents, sulphur and bubbling mud.
Gamma Abdul-Jabbar — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Raflinoer32 — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Eko Raharjo — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Ghifari Dermatiar — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Gamma Abdul-Jabbar — CC BY-SA 4.0
Mount Papandayan is an active volcano in Garut Regency, West Java, rising to 2,665 m south-east of Bandung. Its north-east side holds four active craters, among them Kawah Mas and Kawah Nangklak, whose vents hiss steam and sulphur. The crater field is a short, easy walk from the Camp David car park at about 2,000 m. In August 1772 an eruption brought down the north-east flank; the debris avalanche destroyed some 40 villages and killed nearly 3,000 people. In 1924 the Dutch colonial authorities made part of the mountain a nature reserve. The latest eruption began on 11 November 2002 with a steam blast; 38 minutes later part of the Nangklak crater's north wall collapsed, and some 3,300 villagers were evacuated. The path crosses yellow sulphur crusts, steam vents and bubbling mud, then climbs to Pondok Saladah, an eight-hectare camping meadow at 2,288 m with water, toilets and food stalls. Nearby stands Hutan Mati, the Dead Forest, its trees charred in 2002. Fit walkers reach Tegal Alun, a 35-hectare edelweiss plateau at about 2,500 m, in about two hours; check access at the gate, and never pick the flowers. The car park lies above Cisurupan, 46 km south-south-east of central Bandung as the crow flies. By road, via the often congested Nagreg pass, allow two and a half to three hours. Start early, before the mist, prefer a weekday, and check the alert level on Indonesia's MAGMA volcano service first. As the crow flies, Kampung Naga is 29 km east and Kawah Putih, a separate day out, 40 km west-north-west.
Steam vents, sulphur and bubbling mud.
The Dead Forest left by the 2002 eruption.
An edelweiss meadow of some 35 hectares.
Camp David car park above Cisurupan, Garut Regency
Yes, for an extra fee: Pondok Saladah is the main camping ground, while camping at Tegal Alun is not allowed. Motorcycle taxis run by local villagers can carry you and your gear up to the camp, for about IDR 150,000 in 2025.
Thousands walk the marked path every weekend, but Indonesia's volcanology agency does not allow any activity or overnight stay within 500 m of the four active craters, nor near them in cloudy or rainy weather, and warns of sudden steam blasts. Keep to the path, do not stop by the vents, and wear a mask if the fumes are strong.