Phanoi viewpoint
The river's curve from above.
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Muang Ngoi Neua is a small town on the Nam Ou River in northern Laos, among tall limestone mountains. It has about 700 people and lies about 170 km north-east of Luang Prabang according to Wikipedia. Travellers come for the quiet, with most arriving by boat and staying in simple riverside houses. The name comes from the Ngoi River, which joins the Nam Ou at the town, and «muang» means main centre. It is an old town with roots in Tai history and is home today to Lao Loum people. Where people lived in the district shifted during the 20th century, so the word «Neua», meaning north, was added to set it apart from other towns. The main street is dirt, lined with wooden houses and small cafes, with cows and buffalo wandering past. From the Phanoi viewpoint above town you see the brown curve of the river among green mountains, the finest view here. Paths lead to nearby villages and caves, and companies offer kayaking and guided walks. It is about 17 km in a straight line from Nong Khiaw, and the public boat from there takes around an hour to an hour and a half, usually leaving near 11:00 and 14:00. The UK Foreign Office warns of unexploded weapons in rural areas, so keep to known roads and paths. Bring enough cash and do not expect many services. November to February is the best time.
The river's curve from above.
Wooden houses and buffalo.
Boats among limestone peaks.
Nam Ou River, Ngoi district, Luang Prabang Province, northern Laos
By public boat from Nong Khiaw in about an hour to an hour and a half. There is usually no advance booking, so go to the landing early.
Do not rely on them. The town is small with few services, so bring enough cash.