The Keep rooftop
One of the finest views in the city over the Tyne bridges and the cathedral spire, after a steep spiral climb.
The whole city is named after this place. When Robert Curthose, son of William the Conqueror, threw up a timber fort above the Tyne in 1080, people simply called it the 'new castle', and the name stuck to the town that grew around it for more than nine centuries. What survives is two pieces of stone: the Keep that Henry II commissioned in 1168 and finished within the decade, and the Black Gate, added between 1247 and 1250 under Henry III. Between them, with pure Victorian nerve, runs the mid-19th-century railway viaduct that was cut straight through the castle bailey, so trains now rumble past where the garrison once drilled. The Keep is the part worth climbing. Inside is a small Norman chapel with carved arches, a Great Hall, garrison rooms, and then a tight stone spiral staircase up to the roof. That is where one of Newcastle's finest views arrives: the Tyne bridges stacked in front of you, the crown-like cathedral spire to your left, the city spread below. The roof is exposed and windy even in summer, so bring a jacket. The Black Gate is smaller and more modest: exhibition floors telling how the castle precinct became a crowded slum in the 19th century before it was rescued. A ticket, £13.65 for an adult, £8.95 for a child aged 5 to 15 and £12.25 for students and seniors, is an annual pass covering both buildings, bought online or at the Black Gate desk at the same price; advance booking is not needed even in summer, except for special events. The Black Gate has ramps and an external lift, but the Keep is steep, uneven stairs all the way with no lift and no room for pushchairs inside, which are left in a bay by the entrance. Children of seven and up enjoy the climb; younger ones tire fast. Open 10:00-17:00 with last entry at 16:00, daily April to October, closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays November to March. It sits in the heart of the city, under ten minutes' walk from Newcastle Central Station, and pairs naturally with a stroll down to the Quayside below. An hour to ninety minutes is enough, and if your time in the city is short, the rooftop alone justifies the ticket.
One of the finest views in the city over the Tyne bridges and the cathedral spire, after a steep spiral climb.
A small 12th-century chapel with carved arches, preserved at the base of the Keep.
A Victorian rail viaduct slices through the bailey and splits the Keep from the Black Gate.
The Black Gate, Castle Garth, NE1 1RQ
With under-sixes it is hard work: the Keep is steep spiral stairs throughout with no lift, and pushchairs stay at the entrance. Only the Black Gate has a lift, and it is the less exciting half. From about seven upwards the climb becomes an adventure and the rooftop a real reward.
No contest on scale: Edinburgh Castle is a whole fortified town needing half a day, while Newcastle Castle is one tower and a gatehouse done in an hour. Against Edinburgh its advantages are a far lower price, no crowds or booking, and an excellent river view. Visit if you are in Newcastle, but do not make a special journey for it.