Old City of Tripoli

About this place

The Old City of Tripoli is the walled historic district of the Libyan capital, between Martyrs' Square and the sea. It gathers narrow lanes, souqs, Ottoman mosques, old houses and Roman remains. An hour on foot is enough to grasp the layers of the city's past, from Phoenician Oea to the rule of the Karamanlis. The city stands on the site of ancient Oea, one of the three cities of Tripolis with Leptis Magna and Sabratha. Rulers came and went over the centuries, and each left a mark. These include the Darghut Mosque, the Naqah Mosque, the 18th-century Ahmed Pasha Karamanli Mosque and the Gurgi Mosque of 1834. Parts of it need restoration, so you may see tired houses among those repaired. You walk from Souq al-Mushir near Martyrs' Square, full of shops, to the coppersmiths' souq, where craftsmen hammer metal. You pass arched gates, covered lanes and houses with wooden doors, until you reach the Arch of Marcus Aurelius and Gurgi Mosque at the Bab al-Bahr end. Ask before photographing people, above all in the souqs. It begins at Martyrs' Square, about 600 m in a straight line from the Arch of Marcus Aurelius, and it suits a morning visit. Many shops close on Friday around midday, so plan for that. Wear comfortable shoes and modest clothing, and do not rely on maps alone. Sources say foreigners need a tour operator or local sponsor to visit Libya. The UK Foreign Office currently advises against all but essential travel to this area, so check official guidance before planning.