Ongi Monastery

About this place

Ongi Monastery is the shared name for the ruins of two monasteries facing each other across the Ongi River in south-central Mongolia, where steppe begins to give way to the Gobi. Eroded mud walls among bare hills make a scene both sad and beautiful, and many travellers stop here between the capital and the south. The monastery was founded in 1660 and became one of the largest in Mongolia, housing over a thousand monks at its height. The 18th-century northern complex had 17 temples and the older southern one 11, along with four Buddhist universities. Both were completely destroyed in 1939 during the campaign against the monasteries. Rebuilding began on a modest scale in the 1990s. You walk among low mud walls and temple bases that have lost their roofs, spread over the hills and both banks. On the slope a tall white stupa rises beside a small temple rebuilt with a green and red roof, and a colourful timber gate marks the entrance. The earth glows strongest in the morning and evening, with dark hills far behind it. It lies about 18 km south of Saikhan-Ovoo town and about 200 km in a straight line from Dalanzadgad. There is no regular transport, so visitors reach it on Gobi tours by suitable vehicle and stay in nearby camps. Bring water and a hat, and be respectful, as this is a religious place. The UK Foreign Office reports fuel shortages that may disrupt travel to remote areas, so check before you set off.