Panjshir Valley

About this place

The Panjshir Valley is a valley in north-eastern Afghanistan near the Hindu Kush, divided by the Panjshir River. Its name means valley of the five lions. More than 100,000 people live here, in the province of Panjshir created in 2004. Its sharp mountains, green river and narrow fields make a beautiful mountain scene, very unlike the desert many imagine when they think of the country. Human activity in the valley goes back a long way, and it has long been known for emerald mines. Its people live in small villages on both sides of the river, among orchards and little fields. The valley changes a great deal from season to season, with snow on the high peaks until early summer, feeding the river as the land along its banks turns green. The road runs beside the river, and you see turquoise water rushing between dark rocks, with green fields, mud houses and trees in the wider parts. On the slopes there are at times herds and herders' tents. The finest view comes from the heights above the road, where the river bends. Ask before photographing people, above all women. Its middle lies about 82 km in a straight line from Kabul. Getting there takes a car, a driver who knows the road and perhaps local permits. The best time is June to September. The UK Foreign Office currently advises against all travel to Afghanistan, and access may not be possible, so check official guidance before making any plans.