Penataran Temple

About this place

Penataran Temple, known in its day as Palah, is the largest Hindu temple complex in East Java: shrines, platforms and a pool spread over nearly 13,000 square metres on Kelud volcano's lower south-western slopes, north of Blitar. Its carved dates run from 1197 into the fifteenth century. The Palah inscription ties its beginnings to King Srengga of Kediri, and it probably honoured Shiva as lord of the mountain, perhaps to ward off Kelud's eruptions. Under Majapahit it became a state temple, and the court poem Nagarakretagama (1365) tells of King Hayam Wuruk worshipping here. Its three courtyards lie one behind another, the holiest at the rear, a layout later echoed in Bali. Past the two guardian statues at the gate lie the Bale Agung platform, wrapped in a carved serpent, a terrace carved with the tale of Sri Tanjung, and the small Dated Temple, which bears the year 1369. The Naga Temple in the middle court is circled by a serpent borne by nine richly dressed figures. The three-tiered main temple carries Ramayana and Krishna reliefs in a flat, shadow-puppet style; part of its upper body stands reassembled beside it. Behind lies a pool where, locals say, glimpsing a white catfish brings luck. The temple lies about 10 km north-north-east of central Blitar and 47 km west of Malang as the crow flies; by road it is about 80 km from Malang, two to two and a half hours. Pair it with the Penataran Museum, a few hundred metres away, and Sukarno's grave, on the road between the temple and Blitar.