Phra Nakhon Khiri (Khao Wang)

About this place

A summer palace on the peaks of Khao Wang hill above Phetchaburi, built by King Mongkut (Rama IV) in 1860, which locals call Khao Wang, Palace Mountain. It spreads across three neighbouring summits: the royal palace with its white buildings on the western one, the tall white stupa of Phra That Chom Phet on the middle one, and the small temple of Wat Phra Kaeo on the eastern one. Its charm is the blend of Thai, European and Chinese architecture: white halls with classical columns and arched windows, and the dome of a little observatory from which King Mongkut, a keen astronomer, watched the stars. Walkways between the peaks look over the town, palm groves and mountains as far as the sea on the horizon, and at festivals the whole hill is lit up at night. A Fine Arts entry fee is charged, and most visitors ride the cable car up from the western side for an extra fee, or walk a steep paved path. The hill is full of bold macaques, so carry no visible food or plastic bags and stow your glasses. The heat is fierce from March to May, so early morning is best. Allow two to three hours and come in the morning. Phetchaburi is two hours by car from Bangkok on the way to Hua Hin, an ideal stop for anyone heading to the beach.