The painted dovecotes
Thousands of rock-cut pigeon houses with whitewashed, decorated facades, the vineyards' fertiliser supply for centuries.
Georges Jansoone JoJan — CC BY 3.0 · Ray Swi-hymn from Sijhih-Taipei, Taiwan — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Ray Swi-hymn from Sijhih-Taipei, Taiwan — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Ray Swi-hymn from Sijhih-Taipei, Taiwan — CC BY-SA 2.0
The thousands of small openings cut into the valley walls are not windows but dovecotes. For centuries the villagers of Uçhisar and Göreme kept pigeons in this soft rock, above all for their droppings, the most prized fertiliser for the region's vineyards, and many of the facades are still whitewashed, some with painted red patterns said to have drawn the birds home. The valley runs roughly four kilometres from the hilltop village of Uçhisar down to Göreme, and sits directly under the morning balloon flight path. There are two very different ways to see it. The first is the viewpoint at the Uçhisar end, on the main road: every tour bus stops here, this is where the 'evil-eye tree' hangs heavy with hundreds of blue glass amulets, and there are cafes, souvenir stalls and a view that climbs from the valley floor up to Uçhisar Castle. Twenty minutes is enough. It is crowded and built for photographs rather than contemplation, but the sunrise, with balloons drifting over the valley, is worth the early alarm on its own. The second is the trail that drops from the viewpoint to Göreme in one to two hours, one of the easiest walks in Cappadocia and clear enough to follow from the Uçhisar end. It passes through short rock-cut tunnels and past small cave chapels, and brings the dovecotes within arm's reach. Walk down from Uçhisar rather than up from Göreme: the descent is gentle, the climb in full sun is a slog, and the side paths at the Göreme end are more confusing, so load an offline map. The path is dusty in summer, muddy after rain, and no use whatsoever for pushchairs, though older children enjoy it. There are no facilities past the viewpoint cafes, so carry water, and nothing is signed in Arabic. In August start before eight in the morning or after five, as the valley has no shade. In winter the snow makes it one of the loveliest sights in Cappadocia, but the trail turns slippery and needs proper shoes. Access is free at all hours with no ticket, and at the Göreme end there are taxis and dolmuş minibuses back up to Uçhisar.
Thousands of rock-cut pigeon houses with whitewashed, decorated facades, the vineyards' fertiliser supply for centuries.
A tree strung with hundreds of blue amulets and a view rising from the valley floor to Uçhisar Castle.
One of Cappadocia's easiest trails: short tunnels, cave chapels and dovecotes within arm's reach.
Pigeon Valley viewpoint, Nevşehir–Göreme road, Uçhisar, Nevşehir
On an organised tour or with small children the viewpoint is enough, especially at sunrise. But if you walk only one trail in Cappadocia, this is a good choice: it is among the easiest, and far better than the viewpoint because you get close to the dovecotes instead of seeing them from a distance.
Pigeon Valley is the shortest and easiest and links Uçhisar directly to Göreme, right for first-time walkers or families with children. Red and Rose Valley is longer and more beautiful at sunset but needs more fitness and time, and Love Valley is best known for its roadside viewpoint, with a longer, more exposed walk among the fairy chimneys.
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