San Cosme y Damián Mission

About this place

San Cosme y Damián Mission is one of the seven Jesuit missions in Paraguay, on the north bank of the Paraná River in the south of the country. Unlike the ruins of Trinidad and Jesús, its church still functions today, used for worship and as a community centre, so this is a living place and not only a ruin. Father Adriano Formoso founded it in 1632, and its settlers moved several times before settling here in 1718. It is known for the work of Father Buenaventura Suárez, who arrived in 1703 and stayed until his death in 1750. With the Guaraní people he built working astronomical instruments and sent observations of eclipses and Jupiter's moons to European scientists. In 1743 he published an astronomical calendar covering a century. You enter through a decorated stone gateway to a wide grassy courtyard surrounded by colonnades with timber posts, and the school and priests' rooms are well preserved. In the courtyard are an old well and a stone sundial, almost the only one of Suárez's instruments still here. The church holds original wood carvings, some with their first colours, and one side of the site remains unexcavated. It is 80 km west of Encarnación, and being off the usual route it is quieter than Trinidad. The church is a place of worship, so dress modestly and stay quiet during services. The town is said to have an astronomy centre named after Suárez, so ask about its times. Bring a hat and water, as the courtyard is exposed and summers are very hot.