Santiago Atitlán

About this place

Santiago Atitlán is a large town on a bay of Lake Atitlán between two volcanoes, and one of the lake towns that has kept the most of its culture. Most of its people are Tz'utujil Maya, and it was their capital before the Spanish arrived, under the name Chuitinamit. Visitors come by boat from Panajachel to see the market, church and textiles. Its name comes from Nahuatl for «at the water», and it has a local name meaning «birdhouse». It lies at about 1,556 m, with Volcán San Pedro rising to 2,846 m on the west, Volcán Tolimán to 3,144 m on the southeast and Volcán Atitlán to 3,516 m on the south. The Cojolya Association of Maya Women Weavers preserves the history of local weaving. From the dock, sloping streets lined with shops and cloth climb to the square and the large white Church of Saint James, with its wide steps and timber gallery. Workshops display handwoven fabric, and the Cojolya museum shows backstrap-loom weaving and how traditional dress has changed. Big murals in town honour its women, and the shore gives views of the bay and volcano. It is 14 km in a straight line from Panajachel across the lake, with boats usually running through the day, though the water gets rough in the afternoon. Agree the fare in advance, and do not photograph people without permission. Families hold some local ritual sites sacred, so enter only if invited. Rain increases from June to September.